So I thought it was time to add a bit more depth to this South West Coast Path Series and will try to write a bit everyday to be added to the blog when able to log in (usually every few days).
Today I’m resting up in Newquay as my poor feet have been really hurting at night and its getting in the way of a good nights sleep.
Mon 19 February
Been a good day with a fair amount of ground covered. Had a nice wild camp just outside Port Quin last night and I’m really getting into the swing of sleeping in a tent even though I’d rather not use them (the curse of winter).
Did get lucky a few nights ago as the weather forecast was ultra good with no rain meaning I managed a night with just bed roll + sleeping bag, by far my favorite way of wild camping.
No such luck since as its been raining at night but its all good as I’m sort of failing in love with the Vango and can throw the thing up in a few mins now 🙂
Todays walk took me through Port Issac. Never been there before and have to say it is a very pretty place with the older portions of the town having those lovely narrow streets that look like they’ve been slide together over time.
After loading up with an excess of water in Port Issac it was a struggle getting up onto the first hill although it means I’m good for 2 days now and the pack will always get lighter as its consumed 🙂
Apart from the people I spoke to in Port Issac I’ve not seen a soul on the path today even though I spent 8 hours on it (beautiful). Probably going to be like this all week as people have to work and I’ll get to see more people on the weekend. Starting to think that camping the coast path is safer than mountain camping simply because even with a torch is pure madness to walk it at night.
Felt pushed to find a camping spot tonight as I was stuck on what appeared to be a never ending cliff top path without any chance for anybody but the most crazy to put up a tent. Lucked out though as the path widen out with 3 good spots within a mile of each other just as it was getting dark. Discounted 2 of them and walked back a bit to camp at the better of the 3 which is the closest I’ve been to the sea so far.
Had another day of walking through hill fog which is a nightmare if your trying to see whats ahead of you when spying out possible camp sites. Its getting warming all the time and the long range forecast for the next 5 days is looking good with plenty of dry(ish) days ahead.
It feels very odd sat in my sleeping bag while writing this but time has slowed right down for me along with days melting into each other and a daily piece will let me get more done.
What I’ve learned today….
Cleaning your teeth with lemon and lime frizzy pop is probably the most rank thing in the world (ran out of plain water)
My lack of a shower and beard growth scares people in shops who think I’m on the rob 🙂
Water from a tap marked ‘not for drinking’ is purely a matter of personal choice.
Tue 20 February
Through combination of much dryer paths due to the lack of overnight rain and an easier going trail I whizzed around today, even though the walk around pentre point looked a lot worse from a distance than it really was.
Did consider taking the long way around with an inland walk into Wadebridge then hitting the camel trail down to Padstow. This was scrapped after realizing a long road walk was on the cards and a quick look at the road showed there was zero walkway along with not much in the way of grass verge to amble along.
Facing a good 4-5 hour walk this way I opted for a quick ride on the ferry over to Padstow, which was a treat in itself as I’d forgotten the last time I’d been on a boat even though the trip was only 15 mins.
Todays camp was unfortunately in one of the last places I’d usually camp but with daylight running out the sand dunes on Padstow beech was the only place available. Tucking myself away on what is a fairly large beach and hope I don’t get disturbed by nocturnal dog walkers crashing into the tent half way though the night 🙂
What I’ve learned today….
Not my favorite seafood (by a long shot) but got a crash course on where to find the best mussels on a beach by 2 great guys in Padstow. Apparently they pick loads each week and sell them onto the local restaurants. Maybe I’ll have a go at cooking some up further down the coast but either way its added a little extra to my foraging skills 🙂
Wed 21 February
If only the entire walk was a nice as the walk out of Padstow has been today. Gentle rolling hills with very few sharp climbs is what I wish the whole of the coast path was like (as if).
Todays mission has been to get fully cleaned up with a shower and the chance to wash some clothes .
After getting directed to a supposedly all year round campsite by a number of local numpties I find its not truly open. I can camp anywhere and a paying for a grass pitch is mute at this point with my main concern being the way I look.
The people at the closed site Atlantic bays were kind enough to let me use the one faculty open ‘laundry’ and a women called Dawn I asked for directions in another closed campsite offered the use of the shower in her home which was bloody nice!
While all this needs to be done its taking a long time and eating into almost a full day of walking???
Still I feel much better now and can concentrate on the task at hand (eating up those miles until I reach Poole in Dorset). Did managed to make a bit of ground on the nice easy walk this morning and all thats left now is to get myself back on the coast path before night fall and find a place to spend the night (I’m writing this while waiting for my clothes to dry)
The weather has been cracking all day I’m seriously starting to think about getting hold of some sunblock before I get a huge red face 🙂 All might change soon though as the radio has been warning of a cold snap next week meaning I’ll have to pick my camping spots with a little more care or its going to mean some very uncomfortable nights in the tent.
Still haven’t shaved although I’ve been down this road before and It’ll be interesting to see how big and bushy it gets before pissing me off completely 🙂
Thursday 22 February
Didn’t mess around too much today and pushed the boat out to get close to Newquay before making camp for the night. The actual logistics of finding a spot always seems to take up a large portion of my day.
It would be nice if the coast path was wide and flat enough that I could just walk until nightfall then setup for the night (I’m ruined by mountain camping).
The last couple of nights have been cold with a nice layer of frost all over the tent in the morning. I’m warm enough inside though even if I have to add a another layer of clothing just to keep the cold away.
The problem with this is the weatherman is saying were going to have a proper cold snap next week which may start to become a problem, I’m waiting to see what kind of overnight temperatures they are talking about before I start taking more precautions.