After a great 10 hours sleep in the campsite at Porlock that sorted out all the tiredness of last weeks struggle to get everything sorted so I could take this trip, I woke to a pretty good morning (weather wise).
Having bought supplies the night before there was nothing to do but pack up the tent (getting quicker at this). The campsite must do an amazing amount of business in the summer months as its 10 mins off the coastal path instead like some that can add serious distance to a days walk and in no time at all I was heading towards Porlock Wier for the trek out to Lynmouth.
If there’s any sand on this ‘beach’ its hidden under the half a mile of stones and pebbles that could be a proper disaster if your not watching your feet instead of the surrounding scenery.
Grabbing a quick coffee boost in the ship pub at Porlock Wier then straight back onto the path that heads up into Culbone Woods. The initial bit is a killer with a lot of steep twists and turns before it starts to level out.
Once its settled down though its a nice walk although there are those times when your faced with scrambling around trees fallen into the path (not easy with a bulky backpack). The weather yesterday was just about right for walking and clear skies meant some decent views from the path.
Timing Goes Out the Window
The distance to Lynmouth is only over 10 miles and in straight line this would only take a few hours, but the coast path is far from straight and once you throw in all the time dragging yourself up steep inclines it really slows you down.
In all honesty I should have left Porlock much earlier than I did if there was a hope in hell of reaching Lynmouth with enough time to find somewhere to camp. There was a wild camping opportunity a while back but thought I’d find something in Lynmouth and just kept going (I’m starting to learn that there’s not much open on this section of coast in the ‘off’ season).
So that’s how I ended up stood in the middle of the street in the dark with zero wild camping possibilities and not a campsite anywhere. There was no choice, it was time for a bed and breakfast.
If in Doubt, Hit the Pub
You can forget Tourist information places and the like, if you want to find cheap accommodation you head for the nearest local pub every time. Within an hour of walking through the door I was hooked up with a heavily discounted double en suite room in a hotel that wasn’t actually open and which I’m the only guest, all thanks to a great bloke called Brett.
Its given me the space to get some work done without hanging around pubs and coffee shops along with more/better research for the next leg of this trip. Here’s a link to the hotel website stvincentlynton.co.uk if your ever down this way and looking for a room or two.
There are times when I’m going to need a room for the night just to get properly cleaned up, although this needs to be kept to a minimum and will be less of a problem as the weather gets warmer.
So the next big town on this route is Ilfracombe which is roughly 20 miles as the crow flies. I’d love to think this could be done in one day but there’s no chance, so splitting this section down into 2 days with a wild camp in between.
Luckily there’s a few all year round campsites in Ilfracombe that’ll give me a chance to rest and more importantly clean the wild camping stink off along with getting around to washing my limited supply of clothes 🙂