Sat 24 February
Yesterdays chill out in Newquay was just the ticket. Spent a fair amount of time in Newquay over the years and it was great to have a stroll around to see how things had changed.
The place has really taken to the luxury side of the holiday market with a huge number of self service apartments built or in the progress of being thrown up.
In the pursuit of coffee plus supplies, backtracking is needed sometimes which can be a pain although having another chance to wander down the fantastic Crantock bay was well worth it.
Even giving myself a few hours I thought it was going to be another compromise with a camping spot until finding this lovely dip just off the coast path outside Holywell that gave cover on 3 sides from the 20 Mph wind.
This was one of the most comfortable nights had in the tent for over a week and one place I’ll never forget.
This morning is the first time in 5 days I’ve been able to pack the tent away dry after managing to miss the little bit of frost that was around last night. Breezed into Holywell in the hope of finding coffee only to find the whole place shut down for winter 🙁
Chewed up the miles into Perranporth due to a very easy going coast path along with a bad need for coffee and I’m writing this while working my way through the second cup!
Next week is starting to worry me a little and I know that the media likes to make something of bad weather in this country (surprising as we have so much), but the raw stats are not looking good. The possibility of at least 2 days of heavy snow plus crappy overnight temperatures well into freezing is going to mean some serious care has to be taken over where I choose to bed down for the night.
One day at a time though and with it only being half past one in the afternoon there’s still plenty of this one left, so I’m off to find some supplies, get back on the path and try to get a few more miles in before having to start thinking about finding a place to camp tonight.
These short days are a nightmare as all the time spent in the tent once it gets dark is eating into the distance I could be walking everyday (and I’m sleeping way too much).
Its now just over 4 hrs later and the good path has put me out onto St Agnes headland. I’m being spoiled at the moment as its easy to rack up the miles while the going is this good.
Finding a spot to sling the tent up is difficult on this section of the coast path because whats not covered by thorns is mostly solid rock. Managed to get something workable though and I’m sat 20 mins away waiting for it to get a little darker before making camp.
Sun 25 February
The path was much more busy today as its the weekend and I met 2 interesting people. The first was a guy from London who is hiking the whole of the UK’s coast. We had a good chat about out respective routes as we were both going different ways and he gave me some great information about what lies ahead.
The second was Mick who is living out of his VW van. Spent a good half hour talking to him about the traveling lifestyle in general. His van is fitted out with everything he needs, even a solid fuel stove for heating/cooking 🙂
After a successful (if a little windy) wild camp last night just outside St Agnes todays mission was to minimize the dicking about while covering as much ground as possible.
All was good up to Porthowan (which sorted out the daily coffee fix) then there were 3 killer inlets with steep climbs on everyone. This was nicely offset after by mile on mile of easy grass walks meaning I racked up the miles and am currently only 5 miles from St Ives 🙂
Had a treat walking around Navtex point today as this is a well known place for seals to chill out on the beach.
There’s a mass of sand dunes all across the top of the beach just beyond Navtex and I’ll be investigating those in a bit for a place to wild camp. Weather wise its been a pretty good day providing you stay out of the bitter east wind that’s picked up and makes it even more important that a sheltered place is found for tonights sleep.
Its been a few days since my last shower along with all the clothes I have needing a wash so the plan is to (hopefully) find a campsite in St Ives for a cleansing tomorrow night.
Mon 26 February
Camping anywhere near a beach is not one of my favorite places and even though I tucked myself away out of the way (and in a hole), still got disturbed by teenagers half way though the night. A few choice words along with some threatening behavior made them shoot off very quickly, but my sleep was gone.
At this point I’d usually move camp although they were only messing around and I decided it wasn’t worth the hassle getting everything packed up.
Feeling a little tired today as a result meaning I’d like to find a campsite tonight for a triple whammy of proper sleep, shower and long overdue laundry. The temperature is bitterly cold this morning and I ‘m not looking forward to the next 3-4 days of sub zero temps plus snow.
Did think about putting things on hold for a while to head inland and wait it out. This seems a bit of a cop out though and have decided to just keep going. Will have a good look at my kit today to make sure all is set for very cold weather along with buying some more effective gloves.
Had a great walk down the long beach heading into Hayle this morning where a passing dog ran up and took a quick piss on my rucksack while I was taking a rest 🙂 This happens quite a lot when bumming around and the embarrassment on the owners face is always pretty funny.
Currently sat in a bakers in Hayle who sell great coffee at 1 pound a go (will be on my second cup soon). St Ives is just a short hop down the coast path and hopefully there’s least one open campsite/friendly caravan park that’ll give me the chance to wipe some of the hobo off me.
The point has come where the beard has to go. Thought this time I could get a full soup catcher complete with some 1970’s sideburns but its just getting on my nerves along with making me look like a complete bum 🙂
Kit wise everything is doing well. The decision to break clothes down into only 2 complete changes has saved on weight, the tent is having a great run out (despite being put up in some crazy places/angles) and my long standing rule of throwing away stinky socks instead of lugging the toxic things around has seriously cut down on the pack smell (not enough to stop dogs pissing on it though it seems!).
The last few days have been a joy with great easy going lengths of the coast path to drag myself along. Once I’ve found somewhere for that clean up and good sleep, I’ll be back on it tomorrow with my sights set firmly on Penzance.